Microgreens - Grow Your Own!

If you've never grown microgreens such as culinary herbs, edible flowers, baby lettuce or specialty greens, you really should, because they are a great way to garden year round.

Microgreens are a delicious base for, or an addition to, salads, entrees, and appetizers, plus they can easily be grown, giving you access to fresh greens any time of the year.

What Are Microgreens?

In the old days (like back in the 50s-60s-70s) what we called growing alfalfa sprouts has now developed into "microgreens" because the entire concept has really progressed to the next level.

The microgreens that are available now are the super nutritious, but immature stage (between sprouts and leafy greens) of vegetables, herbs and some edible flowers, and they are mass produced by specialty growers for organic markets, specialty chefs and restaurants, whole foods producers, and online delivery.

The great thing is that even though they are small, they are big on flavor and can be grown just about anywhere - even on a windowsill - because they are basically houseplants you can eat.

Popular Microgreens To Grow:

Peas
Kale
Cabbage
Arugula
Radishes
Beets
Clover
Mustard

What makes microgreens so easy to grow is because they don't need a lot of light, and they’re only going to be grown until the emergence of the first leaf (the cotyledon) stage, so a windowsill or sunny kitchen counter is a ideal location.

Also, each microgreen has an individual flavor, so you can grow your own microgreen "blend" if you want.

Note: If you want to grow a blend of microgreens, just keep in mind that it's important to plant those that have similar germination rates together so you can harvest your greens all at once.

Here's How To Grow Your Own Microgreens:

Supplies:

1. Shallow trays with clear domed lids (available at garden supply stores)

2. Potting soil

3. Seeds

4. Paper towels

Growing and Harvesting:

1. Create a seed bed by filling trays with soil. Be sure the soil is spread uniformly and that the surface is flat

2. Sow seeds by taking handfuls of seed and sprinkling them liberally across the soil surface

3. Press gently on sown seeds to be sure they have contact with the growing medium

4. Place a paper towel over the seed bed - 1 layer thick

5. Water using a kitchen sprayer, or a spray bottle, and thoroughly soak the towels until you are sure the soil beneath is wet

6. Cover trays with lids and place in a location that is not exposed to direct sunlight, but rather an area that gets very little light at all

Note: The lid on the tray will help keep moisture in and stimulate germination, but make sure that the paper towel stays moist during the process. If it dries out, wet it again.

Note: On the other hand, the lid can sometimes create a 'green house effect' so monitor your trays carefully. If the seeds seem to be getting too hot inside, remove the lid slightly to allow for ventilation and some air circulation.

7. Once the seeds fully germinate, which can vary based on seed type used, you'll notice the towel starting to lift off the soil. When this happens, remove the lid and paper towels from the tray and place the tray in a location that gets bright, but indirect sunlight

8. Continue to water gently as needed. Remember that over-watering can be just as damaging as under-watering, so allow the plants to dry slightly between waterings

9. Harvest microgreens any time after the emergence of the first leaves by cutting the stems with sharp kitchen scissors

10. Wash the greens by placing them in a container such as a small, plastic dish pan, and then dry them on a towel

11. Use your microgreens immediately, or store them in a resealable bag in the refrigerator

That's it! Pretty simple. And if you're a salad eater like me, this is a wonderful way to add new zest and zip to your lunch or dinner salads, so give it a try!

For more Gardening Tips and Gardening Advice visit our main gardening website at Weekend Gardener Monthly Web Magazine

Have great week!

Grow Caladium Bulbs, Elephant's Ear Outdoors

Last week we discussed how best to grow caladium bulbs indoors, so this week we are going to go over some tips on how to best grow them outdoors.

How To Grow Caladium Bulbs, Elephant's Ear - Outdoors

General Information:

Although some people may call them bulbs, Caladium bicolor (C. x hortulanum) are actually tubers that originated in South America.

Hundreds of cultivars have been developed offering heart or arrow-shaped leaves that are veined, edged, or mottled in almost endless variations of pink, red, green, white, silver, and mixed color.

Caladium leaves, which can grow up to 24 inches (30 to 60 cm) long, provide a tropical feel to any yard or garden, which can give a stunning look to decks, patios, and pool or spa areas.

Because they are from South America, caladiums do best in hot, humid climates and are hardy to grow outdoors year-round only in very warm climates like Hawaii, or a Zone 10.

This doesn't mean you can't enjoy them in your yard - you most definitely can - but you will have to think of them as a summer plant.

Two Ways To Grow Caladium Outdoors

Because they are sensitive to cooler temperatures, you can grow caladium either:

1. In the ground outdoors

2. In pots outdoors

If you decide to grow them in the ground, you will have to dig them up and store them over winter, which is fast and easy to do, and worth the few minutes of time because these plants are so showy for months.

If you grow them in pots outdoors, you will need to move them indoors over the cold weather months, but more on that in a minute.

Light Requirements

Most caladium require bright shade, although a few newer varieties can tolerate some sun including:

'Fire Chief'

'Rose Bud'

'Red Flash'

'White Queen'

Basic Outdoor Requirements

Caladiums need rich soil, high humidity, and heat above 70° F (21° C) during the day and warm night temperatures of 60° F (16° C) or warmer.

To Grow Caladium In The Ground - Outdoors

Caladium tubers need warm temperatures to do well, so wait until the spring weather in your area is stable and above 70° F (21° C) consistently.

You can always start the tubers indoors about 2 months before you know the outdoor temperatures will be 70° F (21° C) or warmer.

1. Start the tubers in trays of moist peat moss or vermiculite by pressing the tubers 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) deep in the growing media. Place them with the knobby side up.

2. Keep the trays between 75° F and 85° F (24° to 29° C)

3. When leaves start to appear, transplant them into 4 inch (10 cm) peat pots that can later be set directly into the ground in your garden.

To Start Caladium Directly In The Ground

1. Plant tubers in the spring in an area that gets bright shade. Deep shade will produce weak and spindly growth.

2. Place them with the knobby side up so their tops are level with the soil surface.

3. Protect them from snails and slugs.(read our Definitive Organic Guide on How To Kill Snails and Slugs).

4. To encourage continuous production of new leaves and bright-colored foliage, give caladiums regular water, and feed lightly every two weeks throughout the growing season.

5. You can use a balanced soluble fertilizer like a 5-5-5 or a 10-10-10, but nearer the fall, use a 5-10-5 fertilizer to help the bulb store up more energy for its winter dormancy.

6. Cut back dead leaves in the fall. Where freezing weather is likely, dig the tubers out of the ground; remove most of the soil and dry the tubers for several days in a shaded, dry location.

7. Store in dry peat moss at 50° to 60° F (10° to 16° C)

To Grow Caladium In Pots - Outdoors

1. Start tubers in pots in the spring.

2. Use a soil mix made from equal parts of coarse sand, compost, and ground bark or ground peat moss.

3. Use a 5 inch (12.5 cm) pot for a 2-1/2 inch (3.75 cm) tuber, or a 7 inch (17.5 cm) pot for one to two large tubers.

4. Fill halfway with the soil mix; and stir in a few generous pinches of bulb fertilizer like a 5-10-5.

5. Add one more inch (2.5 cm) soil, place the tuber on top and cover with 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) of soil.

6. Water in and keep moist until the tubers spout.

7. Give regular water and fertilizer the same way as mentioned above for growing caladium in the ground.

Problems: Low light will cause weak growth. Dry air or cool drafts can cause the leaves to yellow and die.

Tips:

1. Always remove any flowers since they drain the tuber of its energy

2. Remove all dead leaves at dormancy

3. If you plant the tubers upside down, they will grow large quantities of smaller leaves which can be beautiful

4. Aphids and spider mites can be possible problems

In The Fall

At the end of summer, or after 6 to 8 months of growth, caladiums will start to look stringy and tired. That's your cue to stop watering them, and put them in full shade to induce a dormancy period.

When the leaves die back, cut them off. You can store the tubers either loose in peat moss or vermiculite, or you can leave them in their pots.

Either way, keep them at room temperature or slightly cooler, but never cooler than 50° F (C) during the winter months. You don't want to let them get too cold during the winter because these are tropical plants that like warm conditions.

When new shoots start to show in the spring - if you left them in their pots - start watering them again.

If you dug them up, plant them back outdoors again.

Conclusion

If you want a tropical plant in your yard this summer, try caladiums because they are easy to grow and are endless in their color combinations and varieties.

Plus - with the above information, you have all you need to grow them successfully!

Enjoy!

For more Gardening Tips and Gardening Advice visit our main gardening website at Weekend Gardener Monthly Web Magazine - http://www.weekendgardener.net

Have great week!

Grow Caladium Bulbs, Elephant's Ear

Caladiums provide gorgeous color and excitement to your yard or house all summer long since they can be grown indoors or out.

This week we're going to go over how to best grow caladium indoors, next week we'll give tips how to best grow them outdoors.

How To Grow Caladium Bulbs, Elephant's Ear - Indoors

Caladium bicolor (C. x hortulanum) grows from a tuber, and is the most commonly grown species. In fact there are hundreds of cultivars available some of which include:

'Candidum' - pure white foliage and dark green veins

'Fanny Munson' - light pink foliage with green veins and margins and deep pink midribs

'Pink Beauty' - pink leaves with red veins and bordered with green and pink speckles

'Red Flash' - dark green leaves spotted white, deep red veins and wide green margins

Because of their incredible versatility offering different leaf patterns and colors, caladium never get boring to have around.

Caladium leaves, which grow 12 to 24 inches (30 to 60 cm) long, are usually heart or arrow-shaped, but some are lance-shaped and can come with spots and veins in shades of white, pink, red, green, and mixed colors.

They do flower, but the flowers themselves are not very interesting being a greenish white, and are usually removed so as to not drain the tuber's energy.

What Time Of Year To Plant

In the spring and early summer you'll find nurseries and home improvement centers have caladiums fully grown, but you can save quite a bit of money by buying the tubers instead.

If you opt to buy your own tubers, buy firm, large tubers that are not diseased or sick looking.

Planting Them Up

Plant three tubers in an 8-inch (20 cm) pot, and cover them with 1 inch (2.5 cm) of potting soil. Water them in.

Growing Conditions Caladiums Need

Light: Bright filtered - keep out of direct sunlight or they will fade. Low light will cause spindly growth

Water: Keep evenly moist, but allow them to dry during their winter dormancy (see more below)

Humidity: High. These are tropical plants so if you have a dry house, put a tray of water and pebbles under the plant - just make sure to keep the plant out of the water. Plants left in standing water will die

Temperature: Room temperature of 65-75 degrees F (18.3-24 C)

Fertilizer: Feed lightly once a month with an all purpose soluble houseplant fertilizer like a 10-10-10 or a 5-5-5

Repot: Each spring when dormancy ends (see more below)

Propagation: By division of tubers called tubercles and offsets

Problems: Low light will cause weak growth. Dry air or cool drafts can cause the leaves to yellow and die.

Tips:

1. Always remove any flowers since they drain the tuber of its energy

2. Remove all dead leaves at dormancy

3. If you plant the tubers upside down, they will grow large quantities of smaller leaves which can be beautiful

4. Aphids and spider mites can be possible problems

In The Fall

At the end of summer, or after 6 to 8 months of growth, caladiums will start to look stringy and tired. That's your cue to stop watering them, and put them in full shade to induce a dormancy period.

When the leaves die back, cut them off. You can store the tubers either loose in peat moss or vermiculite, or you can leave them in their pots.

Either way, keep them at room temperature or slightly cooler, but never cooler than 50° F (C) during the winter months. You don't want to let them get too cold during the winter because these are tropical plants that like warm conditions.

When new shoots start to show in the spring - if you left them in their pots - start watering them again.

If you dug them up, repot them first and then begin watering them.

Next Week - How to Grow Caladium Outdoors

Overall caladiums are easy to grow indoors and are stunning to have around. Next week we'll go over how to grow Caladium outdoors!

Other Articles of Interest:

Houseplant Growing Guides - includes pictures and growing information

Caladium bicolor - includes pictures and growing information

For more Gardening Tips and Gardening Advice visit our main gardening website at Weekend Gardener Monthly Web Magazine - http://www.weekendgardener.net/

Have great week!