Crop rotation is the principle of planting a different plant family in a given row each season. For example, if you plant cabbages in row one in the spring, you would not plant cabbages or any other cole crop in that row for two more seasons. This prevents the build-up of insect pests in that row across seasons. It also reduces the possibility diseases will take hold across seasons.

In a small garden, rotating crop families can be a challenge, particularly the large curcubit family. Most people rotate between the curcubit family, the cole family, and the deadly nightshade family. Curcubits are cucumbers, melons, and squash. The cole family includes cabbage, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, kohlrabi, and similar vegetables. The deadly nightshade family includes tomatoes, eggplants, and potatoes. Odds and ends such as radishes, beets, turnips, and peppers are rotated as well.

The principle of succession planting is keeping in mind the length of time a vegetable takes to produce. For example, radishes produce in less than thirty days. After that time, that row or area is available to plant another vegetable that may take longer to grow, such as tomatoes or peppers. Leaving the row vacant after the radishes are done wastes space.

Finally, shading refers to planning your garden so that all the plants get at least six hours of direct sun. If you plant a tall vegetable, such as corn, in the southern most part of your garden, it will shade out anything planted in the two or three rows behind it. Tall plants need to be planted in the northern part of the garden so that this does not become a problem.
Trying to plan your garden with these principles may seem complicated. There are now programs and phone applications that assist in planning, taking into account crop rotation, succession planting, and shading.

However, you can accomplish the same thing with two pieces of graph paper. Graph your garden space on the first piece of paper. On the second piece, lay out how much of your garden you want each vegetable to take up. Cut these pieces out of this second graph paper sheet.

Now you can rearrange the various crops on the graphed garden plot until you are satisfied with where everything should go. Tape the pieces of paper down and use it as a map for planting your garden. The short time spent on this exercise will reap benefits all season long in terms of higher yields and fewer pests and diseases.
Gardening should be fun. A little planning now will help ensure that it is.

For more information, you can check out another article by us on how to start a vegetable garden.

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When corn is processed for oil or some other products, the solid portion of the corn is left behind. This is 60 percent protein and 10 percent nitrogen by weight. Corn gluten is non-toxic and is often fed to livestock because of its’ high protein content. The nitrogen content can enrich the soil where corn gluten is spread, as well.

Corn gluten stops seeds from sprouting. This means it will not kill existing plants, but will keep new ones from coming up. This also means you cannot use it in your vegetable garden or any place else you intend to plant seeds until after the seeds sprout. It is safe to use around transplanted plants, however, if they are given time to establish their root system first.

Corn gluten is available as a powder or a pellet. Both work well, but the pellet is somewhat easier to use. You spread both around at a rate of twenty pounds of corn gluten per 1,000 square feet of ground. The best times to spread it vary by area. You want to spread it once just before the ground warms up to allow cool spring weeds to sprout, as early as February in the South or as late as May in the North.

The second application needs to be done six to eight weeks later when the warm weather weeds are about to sprout. After you spread the corn gluten around, you need to water it in lightly so it forms a chemical barrier across the ground. Do not water heavily for several days after applying the corn gluten or you will wash the chemical barrier away.

As weed seeds grow through that barrier, the corn gluten stops them from being able to grow roots or leaves. The seed starves to death before it can get through the chemical barrier. Sometimes, very vigorous seeds will be able to “outgrow” this problem and come up anyway. However, they are few and far between and are easily dealt with using a hoe to cut
them.

Corn gluten is labeled for use around vegetable gardens. It can be used there if you wait to spread it until all your seeds are up and have taken hold well. Transplants need to have had a chance to take hold, too, and develop their root system before the corn gluten is used around them.

Corn gluten is considered an organic product and may be used in organic agriculture. It is becoming more widely available, but you may have to hunt for it at farm supply stores and feed stores. Be sure to read the label and make sure corn gluten is all that is in the product before applying to your organic garden.

The major disadvantage to corn gluten is its’ price. It is significantly more expensive than herbicides that perform in a comparable manner. However, as more people use it and it becomes more common, the price may come down. Only you can decide if the benefits of using corn gluten outweigh the higher cost.

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All the strains of powdery mildew produce this fine talc covering. They appear white at first, then turn black as spores are produced. Leaves may curl, have yellow patches, and fall prematurely. Infected buds may not bloom.
Warm, dry climates favor powdery mildew. So does lack of air circulation. It is often seen in plants that are crowded in a bed and have stagnant air circulation. This is one reason it is important to divide and replant bulbs and other plants that reproduce into thick masses.

There are several things you can do to combat powdery mildew. All effected plants should be removed from the bed. If only one part of the plant has powdery mildew, you can prune the effected part off. Do not compost these sick plants. Toss them in the trash can instead. You do not want to spread this disease and most home compost piles are not hot enough to kill it.

Thinning the beds of plant material so that air circulates is important. Pruning shrubs, trees, and woody perennials to allow circulation around the plants will help. Powdery mildew likes warm, dry climates but requires a high relative humidity in the area it infests. Lower the relative humidity, lower the risk of a problem.

Refrain from fertilizing plants with lots of nitrogen late in the summer. The tender succulent growth that results is very vulnerable to powdery mildew. Fertilize in the spring and fall instead, when the temperature is less to the fungus’ liking.
Sometimes, cultural controls fail to control powdery mildew. Then chemical controls are necessary. These controls include fungicides such as sulphur, neem oil, triforine, or potassium bicarbonate. Be sure that the product you are using is labeled for the plant you want to use it on. Some products, such as those containing triforine, are for ornamentals only.

Chemical control is most effective when combined with biological control. The visibly effected plant material should be removed. The fungicide should then be applied according to the label directions. This process will have to be repeated at seven to fourteen day intervals throughout the growing season to really lick the problem, according to the product label. Powdery mildew is persistent.

If this all sounds like a lot of trouble, you should pick plants that are resistant to powdery mildew when planning your landscape. There are varieties of roses, vegetables and grasses that have been developed to resist powdery mildew. You will need to inquire at your nursery for these varieties if you have a problem with this disease. If you plant varieties that are not resistant, avoid planting them in low, shady spots as this is a favorite location for powdery mildew.
Powdery mildew is a persistent and pervasive pest. Cultural and chemical controls must be used in combination to eliminate it from your garden.

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Persimmons versatility make them prefect for edible landscapes and wildlife plots. They can also be used to naturalize an area with easy.

A persimmon tree can be described as a beautiful, multi-season beauty. This tree is covered in ebony colored bark that is deeply grooved. The emerald green leaves grow in an alternative pattern. The blooms are not very showy but come fall the fruit makes up for this. As temperatures begin to cool in the fall, the green balls of fruit begin to change into crimson orange and remain that way until the end of the season.

This tree only has three enemies. The first enemy consists of the animals that love to eat the fruit. This includes white-tailed deer, rabbits, bobwhites, raccoons, and squirrels. The second type of enemy includes several types of insects. This includes the bark and phloem borer (Agrilus fuscipennis), the persimmon borer (Sannina uroceriformis), webworms (Sannina uroceriformis), hickory horned devil (Sannina uroceriformis), twig gridler ((Oncideres cingulata), and the false powderpost beetle ((Xylobiops basilaris).

The last enemy is a fungus disease called persimmon wilt (Cephalosporium diospyri). This wilt has only shown up in central Tennessee.

American persimmon trees can be started in a couple of ways but the easiest approach is through the use of seedlings or seeds. Seedlings can be purchased through local extension offices and an even be found at some nurseries that specialize in native species.

Regardless of which method you choose, you will need at least two trees. Persimmons produce male and female blooms on separate trees and having more trees increases the chances of proper pollination.

If you are using seedlings, the first step in the planting process consists of planning out your planting arrangement and digging the hole. Persimmon trees like to be at least 2 feet apart. Mark the area on the ground where you want to place your trees with powdered milk. After this is done it is time to dig.

Most persimmon seedlings are sold bare-rooted so it is very important to get them in the ground as soon as possible. The hole for the persimmon seedlings needs to be two feet deep and two feet wide. Place the soil in a wheelbarrow and mix with well-seasoned compost.

Once all the holes have been dug, it is time to begin the planting process. Place the seedling in the hole for a dry run. The tree should not be any deeper then it was in its container but since bare-root trees do not come in a container this can be a challenge. To aid in this step, study the root area of each seedling. Look for a soil line around the base of the tree. Once you find this line, it will be your depth gauge for each tree.

Place each tree in the hole at the correct depth and fill in with soil. Once all the trees have been planted, water in and refill with soil if needed.

If using the tree to naturalize an area, this is all that is needed. If the tree is used in an edible or decorative landscape, then you will need to create a berm. A berm is simply a rim of soil that is place several inches away from the trunk of the tree. This berm creates a well around the tree for water collection and protects the tree from lawnmower and weedeater damage.

Fertilize the tree with an all-purpose fertilizer once a month during the growing season.

Persimmons can also be started from seed. This begins by gathering ones fruit. This can be ripe fruit that has been picked off the tree or you now can purchase it through the local grocery store.

After the fruit has been gathered, simply run it through a food mill and separate the pulp from the seeds and skin. Once this is done, remove the seeds, wash them and place them out to dry for one to two days.

After they have dried, it is time to stratify them. This only requires the seeds to be placed in damp peat moss and then placed in an environment that is kept at 33 to 40 degrees F for two to three months.

In the spring, plant the seeds in a shallow hole and cover with ½ inch of hummus. Once the seeds have germinated and produced at least three leaves, it is time to transplant, if desired. Do not wait until the seedlings are several feet in height. Persimmons do not transplant well due to their taproot.

Persimmons will begin to produce fruit when they are around 25 to 50 years old but some 10-year-old trees have been known to produce.

A cautionary hint when it comes to planting a persimmon tree. Keep in mind that the tree does fruit and this fruit makes a mess on sidewalks, roofs, and cars. Plan your placement for when the tree is mature and fruiting not while it is small. This prevents problems from occurring and keeps peace with your family, friends and neighbors

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Some individuals would say that a plant is only an heirloom if it was in use before World War I. The distinction is not critical, however, because the true boundary being expressed is that the plant was developed before the widespread use of chemical fertilizers and pesticides. These plants should not depend on huge amounts of chemicals being used to kill anything else in the field, as some modern seed does.

Open pollinated means that the plant will breed true. If you save the seeds from one year and plant them the next, you will get plants just like the parent. Many modern seeds are hybrids. If you save the seeds and sow them the next year, you will get a plant that is unpredictable. It will not look like its’ parents, but will favor one or the other in ways that are impossible to tell. Farmers that plant hybrid plants must buy new seed every year to get the expected crop.

Genetically modified crops are variously viewed as the salvation of man or the instrument of its’ destruction. GMO crops have genetic material from unrelated species inserted into their genetic material to add desirable characteristics and mitigate undesirable ones. Corn is the classic GMO crop right now. Genes have been added to make it more tolerant to pesticides and to kill caterpillars that eat it. Because corn is pollinated by the wind, one field can contaminate thousands
of acres with GMO pollen. Lawsuits are still being used to sort that one out.

Some groups growing heirloom plants add a requirement that the plants came passed down in families, not maintained by seed companies. This is not necessary, but it makes it more interesting to grow a given crop if you know the plant was smuggled out of Hungary by fleeing Germans, or brought to the United States by Irish immigrants.

The biggest advantage of heirloom plants is their genetic diversity. You can find plants that will survive in almost any climate in the heirloom part of the seed catalog. However, you should know that many heirloom plants do not have resistance to common problems such as fusarium wilt in tomatoes, so you have to pick your plants wisely. Not everything grows every place, and sometimes it is tough to find out exactly what climate the plants will do best in.

Heirloom plants are typically more expensive than hybrid plants. However, they taste good, come in strange and wonderful colors and shapes, and work to keep plants alive that would otherwise die out. Try out a row of heirloom plants this growing season.

You can find more information on heirloom plants at the Seed Saver’s Exchange. They are a seed bank that also grows out and sells many heirloom plants and seeds.

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Just as maple trees are grown for their sap, myrrh trees are grown for their oleoresin, the mixture of resin and essential oils that can be harvested from them. To do so, the bark is scored and the oleoresin is harvested as it weeps out of the wound. It hardens into a ball of gum that is then used for a variety of purposes.

Why would you give tree sap to a baby? Because of the labor intensive nature of harvesting this substance, it was very expensive. It would be more like giving the child silver instead of coins. In fact, it was then worth more than gold, so was one of the most valuable gifts available in portable form for a camel caravan to carry.

Myrrh was used by the Egyptians to embalm mummies and is used as a folk remedy for a number of problems. It was used as an antiseptic for wounds, a tonic for stomach problems, and as a mouthwash. If your dentist has given you a special mouthwash for gum problems, it probably has myrrh in it.

More importantly for this particular baby, myrrh was used as a sacrifice in Hebrew rituals at the Temples in Jerusalem. Supposedly, the symbolism of sacrifice and the use in death foreshadowed the crucifixion. Because of the connection to Jesus, myrrh is used in incense in both Roman Catholic and Orthodox services. It is still labor intensive to harvest and is still very expensive.

Myrrh grows primarily in the southern part of Arabia. It is a desert plant, growing in poor, rocky soil, usually over limestone. It is sometimes planted in North America as part of a Biblical garden, but unless the garden is around zones 10 and 11, it will not survive the winter. The plant is really a tree growing ten to twelve feet high, so it needs to be planted where there is plenty of room. It should be eight to ten feet from any other tree as it spreads out. It must be planted in the full sun. Myrrh blooms repeatedly with a brown blossom. The foliage is aromatic and can be used in potpourri.

While most North Americans will never see myrrh, now you know what it is: a mixture of essential oils and resins harvested from a small, scrubby thorn tree.

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The Christmas cactus is actually not a true cactus but instead a tropical cactus that lives in Central and South America. It is classified as an epiphyte or plant that lives on tree bark much like orchards. These plants can be found in the forks of trees where decaying leaves and debris has accumulated.

Today, you do not have to travel to South America to obtain a Christmas cactus. Instead they can easily be found in grocery stores, home improvement centers and plant nurseries. When purchasing your Christmas cactus, only pick plants whose blooms are mostly closed. This will give you a longer blooming season at home.

Once you have chosen your plant, make sure that it is protected from the outside cold by placing a plastic bag over the top and placing it in a warm vehicle. After you get it home, gently remove it from the bag. A Christmas cactus is very particular about its location. It likes to be placed in a room that is kept on the cool side and away from any drafts. This means they should not be placed near doors, windows, and heat ducts. This plant also likes indirect light during the day and completed darkness at night.

After you have decided where you are going put your Christmas cactus, the next step is to add humidity. Since this plant is from a tropical region it is important to create a moist environment. This can be done in a couple of ways. One can place a vase, cup or saucer of water near the plant. Another approach is to create a humidity tray. This is done by filling a waterproof tray with pebbles, marbles or glass beads and then filling the tray half way up with water. Set the plant on the pebbles but not in the water. As the water evaporates, it will create a humid microclimate for the Christmas cactus. Just remember though, to check the water level often.

Do not make the mistake of thinking that the humidity tray will also water your plant, it will not. The Christmas cactus needs to be watered just like any other tropical plant in your home.

Once the plant has finished blooming, let it rest for 30 days by moving it to a cool room and reducing the amount of water it receives. After the rest period, you may find that it is setting blooms again. It is not uncommon for a Christmas cactus to bloom several times during the year.

During March or April, one can shape their Christmas cactus by pinching off any unwanted growth but do not throw away the unwanted plant material. The Christmas cactus is one of the easiest plants to start. All it takes is placing the pinched off growth into soil. You may even find that some of the growth already has roots, which makes rooting a lot simpler. Once the pinched off material has been placed in soil, keep the soil evenly moist until rooted. After the starts have rooted, plant into a small pot.

After the local frost-free date has passed, move the Christmas cactus outside to a shady area. Do not water but instead let Mother Nature control the moisture level.

Move the plant back inside the home before a killing frost. Once inside the plant will need to be placed in a room that receives 8 to 10 hours of indirect sunlight and 12 to 14 hours of complete darkness. Also, the room will need to be kept around 50 degrees F.

Once inside the room, reduce watering. During late October to early November begin to fertilize with an application of 0-10-10. Repeat this again in February.

If, for whatever reason, you feel your Christmas cactus needs to be replanted only do this in February, March or April but keep in mind though that the plant does much better root bound.

With a little luck and patience, your Christmas cactus will bloom again and again for many years and generations to come.

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Corn grows best when grown in blocks, rather than one or two scraggily rows. This is because corn is wind pollinated, so enough of it has to be close for the pollen to waft over from their neighbors. This characteristic also means that if you want your heritage breeds to breed true, they have to be isolated from other types of corn. Sometimes that means grown a ways from other plants, but sometimes you can accomplish the same thing by planting verities that bloom at different times so they do not cross pollinate.

The ideal kind of corn for popping is flint corn. These corn types have hard kernels that can take the pressure of the steam for the maximum amount of time before they explode. Pick a color that appeals to you.

Plant your corn an inch to four inches deep. If your summers are dry, deeper plantings are better. Corn should be sown after all danger of frost is gone. Seeds should be six to twelve inches apart. Corn is a heavy feeder, so fertilize with good compost before planting the seeds.

Corn does not tolerate weeds well. However, it will tolerate beans growing along the stalks if you wait until the corn is up before planting the beans. Otherwise, the beans crowd out the corn. Squash can be planted after both the beans and corn are sprouted. It will spread out between rows and help crowd out weeds. The corn will shade it from the heaviest sun so the squash do not get sunburned.

Popcorn is harvested differently than sweet corn. Sweet corn is picked at the milk stage. Popcorn should be allowed to ripen completely and dry on the plant. Only then should you pick it.

Next, you shuck the husk off of the ear of corn. Now the kernels have to be removed from the cob. The husk and cob make good fire starters. The kernels can now be popped with a little oil and salt on the stove. Listen carefully and remove the popper from the stove when the rush of kernels popping stops. The line between popped and burned is pretty slim. Burned popcorn is practically inedible.

Some good varieties of corn to grow for popcorn are Strawberry, a nice red, Robust White, Robust Yellow, Japanese Hulless, and many of the corns referred to as “Indian Corn”. Experiment a little and see which ones you like best.

Corn is susceptible to many pests. Cut worms and other bugs eat the stalks, corn borers and corn earworms eat the corn, and raccoons will just eat your entire crop in one night. Plant more than you expect to need so you have some left over after the critters take their share. Who can blame them for wanting some popcorn, too?

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Prior to going to get your tree, decide where you plan to set up the tree.  This area will determine the height, width, and viewing side requirements.  As an example, if a tree is going to be placed in a corner, only the front will be viewed.  When obtaining a tree for this area, one could choose a tree that only has one good side.  Also, if placing a tree in a corner is it important to be able to get around the tree to decorate it and such?  Another consideration is whether there are any fire hazards nearby.  These include heating vents in the floor, registers, fireplaces, table lamps, and wood stoves.

Once you have a firm idea of where you want your tree, you need to take some measurements.  These include the height and width of the tree but do not forget the height of the stand.  Depending on the type of stand you use this could add a few inches to your measurements.

Next, one needs to decide if they want to cut their own or purchase one already cut.  Some Christmas tree farms have available already cut trees but if you decide to go the precut route there are a few things you need to know.

First, you need to find out when the trees were cut or delivered.  The longer a tree is out of water the quality time you will have with your tree before it starts dropping its needles.  Next, choose a few trees that meet your measurement requires and set them aside.  Look at the bottom of the trunk and ask the following questions.  Is it straight?  Is there enough of the trunk left that I can make a new cut when I get home?  Once this is done, there is one last test before making the final decision and that is the needle test.

The needle test is a simple test to determine the amount of moisture still in the needles.  The test begins by bending the end of several branches and seeing if it springs back.  Next, gently bend individual needles to see if they break or gently bend.  If they are brittle and break, then the tree is tried out.  If they gently bend, then the needles have moisture.  The last test is to pick up the tree by the trunk and gently tap it on the ground.  If a pile of needles falls off the tree, then the tree has been out of water too long, which in turn means the tree quality is poor.  A poor quality tree will begin to turn brown and shed its needles sooner.

If you decide, on the other hand, that you want to cut your own Christmas tree you must follow the measurement guidelines as described above.  Do not let not having a saw stop you from cutting your own tree.  Many Christmas tree farms have saws that can be borrowed during the process.

Before going out to the tree farm, one must take their measurements, a tape measure, saw, tie downs for the tree, bright colored material, tarp, camera, hot drinks and a partner.  Cutting a Christmas tree is easier done by two people verses one.  After you have your materials together, it is time to begin the searching process.

Searching for the right Christmas tree can take several hours so be prepared.  Christmas tree farms typically have a wider collection of trees so explore your options.  To aid you in your search, visit http://urbanext.illinois.edu/trees/types.cfm for additional information.

Never start cutting on a tree until you are absolutely sure that is the one you want.  Check the measurements twice and study the trunk.  Is the trunk straight?  Am I going to have enough of the trunk left to remove ½ inch off the bottom when I get home?  Is there going to be enough of the trunk left to get into the stand?  Are there any knots in my way?  Pines are notorious for having knots so keep this in mind.

Once the prefect tree has been found, it is time to begin the cutting.  The person that is going to do the cutting needs to lay on the ground while the other person needs to hold the bottom branches up and out of the way.  To keep the saw blade from binding, gently bend the tree in the opposite direction of the cut.  Once the tree trunk is cut ¾ the way through another cut needs to be made on the opposite side.  Continue to cut until the tree trunk is cut completely through.

After the tree has been cut, take it up to the processing area where it will be cleaned and netted.  Cleaning consists of blowing or shaking the tree to remove spent needles.  These are needles that are shed through a natural process by which the tree prepares for winter and not due to improper moisture.

Once the tree is cleaned, it will be wrapped in netting that protects the branches and makes transporting easier.  Before leaving though, make sure to pick up a tree removal bag.  This bag can be used as a tree skirt and when the tree is finished simply pull the bag up over the tree.  This saves time on cleanup and your floors from falling needles.

Now, it is time to prepare it for the trip home by wrapping it in a tarp and placing it in your vehicle.  As a precaution, tie a piece of brightly colored material on the top of the tree so that other drivers see it.

When you get it home, you do not have to place it indoors immediately.  You can delay this by simply placing the tree in a cool, sheltered area such as a garage until you are ready.  Once you are prepared, a few things need to be done.  First, a fresh, straight cut between ½-1-inch thick needs to be made on the trunk.  Next, any dirt needs to be removed from the trunk area and the stand needs to be placed.  Do not remove any bark from the trunk to make the tree fit the stand.  Once the tree is in the stand, adjust as needed and add one quart of warm water per inch diameter of the trunk.  Check the moisture daily and adjust as needed.

Once the holiday season is over do not throw your tree in the trash, instead use it as a bird feeder in the garden or recycle it.

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The other side of that coin is just as much a problem. As someone whose pecan tree just dropped a limb through their roof. If you plant a tree too close to a structure or pipe, you can have problems. Make sure you consider the size and root structure of the mature tree when deciding where to plant it.

Then there is the question of when to plant the tree. Bare root trees have to be planted when they are dormant. Wrapped and balled trees, or container trees, can be planted any time of the year. Survival is highest if they are planted during the dormant season, however. Of course, the ground has to be soft enough to dig in, so you may have to plant earlier or later than ideal if you live where the ground freezes too much to dig for part of the year.

Digging the hole is relatively straight forward. Make the hole a little bigger around than the roots and a little deeper than them. You want to suspend the tree over the hole and have the toots spread out, but not quite touching the hard dirt. It helps to have one person hold the tree in this position and the second person to shovel in the dirt around the roots.

Resist the temptation to shovel potting soil, peat moss, mulch, fertilizer, or other good stuff in the hole instead of the dirt you removed from it. Otherwise, the roots will travel in a circle around the circumference of the hole and girdle themselves instead of spreading out naturally. Eventually, this will kill the tree.
The crown of the tree, where the roots meet the trunk, should be just slightly above the level of the dirt when the hole is filled. Tamp the dirt down until you have a bit of a depression to hold water, but not a well. Fill a five gallon bucket and water the tree in. The depression should hold the five gallons of water until it soaks in.

Now comes the hard part. Prune off the top one third of the tree by cutting the trunk. This is so that the roots have a chance to become established before the tree runs out of stored energy. If you fail to perform this step, you increase the likelihood that the tree will fail to thrive.

Wait to fertilize your tree for six months to a year after it is planted. Fertilizing immediately risks stimulating a burst of foliage and branch growth before the roots can support them. This stresses the tree and it can literally grow itself to death.

Trees add beauty and value to a home. Planted properly, they should give years of enjoyment.

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