Gardening Tips & Ideas

Planning Your Vegetable Garden

Written by Stephanie on January 30th, 2012

There are three main issues that are important when planning a vegetable garden: crop rotation, succession planting, and shading. Planning your garden on paper while keeping these issues in mind will make your gardening season much more productive and enjoyable.

Crop rotation is the principle of planting a different plant family in a given row each season. For example, if you plant cabbages in row one in the spring, you would not plant cabbages or any other cole crop in that row for two more seasons. This prevents the build-up of insect pests in that row across seasons. It also reduces the possibility diseases will take hold across seasons.

In a small garden, rotating crop families can be a challenge, particularly the large curcubit family. Most people rotate between the curcubit family, the cole family, and the deadly nightshade family. Curcubits are cucumbers, melons, and squash. The cole family includes cabbage, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, kohlrabi, and similar vegetables. The deadly nightshade family includes tomatoes, eggplants, and potatoes. Odds and ends such as radishes, beets, turnips, and peppers are rotated as well.

The principle of succession planting is keeping in mind the length of time a vegetable takes to produce. For example, radishes produce in less than thirty days. After that time, that row or area is available to plant another vegetable that may take longer to grow, such as tomatoes or peppers. Leaving the row vacant after the radishes are done wastes space.

Finally, shading refers to planning your garden so that all the plants get at least six hours of direct sun. If you plant a tall vegetable, such as corn, in the southern most part of your garden, it will shade out anything planted in the two or three rows behind it. Tall plants need to be planted in the northern part of the garden so that this does not become a problem.
Trying to plan your garden with these principles may seem complicated. There are now programs and phone applications that assist in planning, taking into account crop rotation, succession planting, and shading.

However, you can accomplish the same thing with two pieces of graph paper. Graph your garden space on the first piece of paper. On the second piece, lay out how much of your garden you want each vegetable to take up. Cut these pieces out of this second graph paper sheet.

Now you can rearrange the various crops on the graphed garden plot until you are satisfied with where everything should go. Tape the pieces of paper down and use it as a map for planting your garden. The short time spent on this exercise will reap benefits all season long in terms of higher yields and fewer pests and diseases.
Gardening should be fun. A little planning now will help ensure that it is.

For more information, you can check out another article by us on how to start a vegetable garden.

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Using Corn Gluten As A Pre-Emergent

Written by Stephanie on January 24th, 2012

Many people want to get rid of weeds in their yard without using harsh chemicals. One popular alternative is corn gluten. This is an organic pre-emergent used before the soil reaches the temperature where weed seeds start to germinate, typically around 55 degrees Fahrenheit. What exactly is corn gluten and how does it work?

When corn is processed for oil or some other products, the solid portion of the corn is left behind. This is 60 percent protein and 10 percent nitrogen by weight. Corn gluten is non-toxic and is often fed to livestock because of its’ high protein content. The nitrogen content can enrich the soil where corn gluten is spread, as well.

Corn gluten stops seeds from sprouting. This means it will not kill existing plants, but will keep new ones from coming up. This also means you cannot use it in your vegetable garden or any place else you intend to plant seeds until after the seeds sprout. It is safe to use around transplanted plants, however, if they are given time to establish their root system first.

Corn gluten is available as a powder or a pellet. Both work well, but the pellet is somewhat easier to use. You spread both around at a rate of twenty pounds of corn gluten per 1,000 square feet of ground. The best times to spread it vary by area. You want to spread it once just before the ground warms up to allow cool spring weeds to sprout, as early as February in the South or as late as May in the North.

The second application needs to be done six to eight weeks later when the warm weather weeds are about to sprout. After you spread the corn gluten around, you need to water it in lightly so it forms a chemical barrier across the ground. Do not water heavily for several days after applying the corn gluten or you will wash the chemical barrier away.

As weed seeds grow through that barrier, the corn gluten stops them from being able to grow roots or leaves. The seed starves to death before it can get through the chemical barrier. Sometimes, very vigorous seeds will be able to “outgrow” this problem and come up anyway. However, they are few and far between and are easily dealt with using a hoe to cut
them.

Corn gluten is labeled for use around vegetable gardens. It can be used there if you wait to spread it until all your seeds are up and have taken hold well. Transplants need to have had a chance to take hold, too, and develop their root system before the corn gluten is used around them.

Corn gluten is considered an organic product and may be used in organic agriculture. It is becoming more widely available, but you may have to hunt for it at farm supply stores and feed stores. Be sure to read the label and make sure corn gluten is all that is in the product before applying to your organic garden.

The major disadvantage to corn gluten is its’ price. It is significantly more expensive than herbicides that perform in a comparable manner. However, as more people use it and it becomes more common, the price may come down. Only you can decide if the benefits of using corn gluten outweigh the higher cost.

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Powdery Mildew: What Is It And How To Combat It

Written by Stephanie on January 18th, 2012

Powdery mildew infects a wide range of plants. It is easily recognized by the white to gray talcum powder like substance all over the leaves of the plant. This substance blocks the sunlight to the leaves and can prevent the plant from producing enough food to feed itself. In effect, the plant starves to death.

All the strains of powdery mildew produce this fine talc covering. They appear white at first, then turn black as spores are produced. Leaves may curl, have yellow patches, and fall prematurely. Infected buds may not bloom.
Warm, dry climates favor powdery mildew. So does lack of air circulation. It is often seen in plants that are crowded in a bed and have stagnant air circulation. This is one reason it is important to divide and replant bulbs and other plants that reproduce into thick masses.

There are several things you can do to combat powdery mildew. All effected plants should be removed from the bed. If only one part of the plant has powdery mildew, you can prune the effected part off. Do not compost these sick plants. Toss them in the trash can instead. You do not want to spread this disease and most home compost piles are not hot enough to kill it.

Thinning the beds of plant material so that air circulates is important. Pruning shrubs, trees, and woody perennials to allow circulation around the plants will help. Powdery mildew likes warm, dry climates but requires a high relative humidity in the area it infests. Lower the relative humidity, lower the risk of a problem.

Refrain from fertilizing plants with lots of nitrogen late in the summer. The tender succulent growth that results is very vulnerable to powdery mildew. Fertilize in the spring and fall instead, when the temperature is less to the fungus’ liking.
Sometimes, cultural controls fail to control powdery mildew. Then chemical controls are necessary. These controls include fungicides such as sulphur, neem oil, triforine, or potassium bicarbonate. Be sure that the product you are using is labeled for the plant you want to use it on. Some products, such as those containing triforine, are for ornamentals only.

Chemical control is most effective when combined with biological control. The visibly effected plant material should be removed. The fungicide should then be applied according to the label directions. This process will have to be repeated at seven to fourteen day intervals throughout the growing season to really lick the problem, according to the product label. Powdery mildew is persistent.

If this all sounds like a lot of trouble, you should pick plants that are resistant to powdery mildew when planning your landscape. There are varieties of roses, vegetables and grasses that have been developed to resist powdery mildew. You will need to inquire at your nursery for these varieties if you have a problem with this disease. If you plant varieties that are not resistant, avoid planting them in low, shady spots as this is a favorite location for powdery mildew.
Powdery mildew is a persistent and pervasive pest. Cultural and chemical controls must be used in combination to eliminate it from your garden.

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A Country Favorite: The Persimmon Tree

Written by Mindy on January 13th, 2012

The American persimmon tree (Diospyros virginiana) can be found growing wild in many areas of the United States. It can be found from Connecticut to Florida and across to Ohio. It’s growth requirements are very broad and can grow in practically any type of soil. Due to its deep root nature, the persimmon tree is often planted in areas that are eroding away as a form of erosion control.

Persimmons versatility make them prefect for edible landscapes and wildlife plots. They can also be used to naturalize an area with easy.

A persimmon tree can be described as a beautiful, multi-season beauty. This tree is covered in ebony colored bark that is deeply grooved. The emerald green leaves grow in an alternative pattern. The blooms are not very showy but come fall the fruit makes up for this. As temperatures begin to cool in the fall, the green balls of fruit begin to change into crimson orange and remain that way until the end of the season.

This tree only has three enemies. The first enemy consists of the animals that love to eat the fruit. This includes white-tailed deer, rabbits, bobwhites, raccoons, and squirrels. The second type of enemy includes several types of insects. This includes the bark and phloem borer (Agrilus fuscipennis), the persimmon borer (Sannina uroceriformis), webworms (Sannina uroceriformis), hickory horned devil (Sannina uroceriformis), twig gridler ((Oncideres cingulata), and the false powderpost beetle ((Xylobiops basilaris).

The last enemy is a fungus disease called persimmon wilt (Cephalosporium diospyri). This wilt has only shown up in central Tennessee.

American persimmon trees can be started in a couple of ways but the easiest approach is through the use of seedlings or seeds. Seedlings can be purchased through local extension offices and an even be found at some nurseries that specialize in native species.

Regardless of which method you choose, you will need at least two trees. Persimmons produce male and female blooms on separate trees and having more trees increases the chances of proper pollination.

If you are using seedlings, the first step in the planting process consists of planning out your planting arrangement and digging the hole. Persimmon trees like to be at least 2 feet apart. Mark the area on the ground where you want to place your trees with powdered milk. After this is done it is time to dig.

Most persimmon seedlings are sold bare-rooted so it is very important to get them in the ground as soon as possible. The hole for the persimmon seedlings needs to be two feet deep and two feet wide. Place the soil in a wheelbarrow and mix with well-seasoned compost.

Once all the holes have been dug, it is time to begin the planting process. Place the seedling in the hole for a dry run. The tree should not be any deeper then it was in its container but since bare-root trees do not come in a container this can be a challenge. To aid in this step, study the root area of each seedling. Look for a soil line around the base of the tree. Once you find this line, it will be your depth gauge for each tree.

Place each tree in the hole at the correct depth and fill in with soil. Once all the trees have been planted, water in and refill with soil if needed.

If using the tree to naturalize an area, this is all that is needed. If the tree is used in an edible or decorative landscape, then you will need to create a berm. A berm is simply a rim of soil that is place several inches away from the trunk of the tree. This berm creates a well around the tree for water collection and protects the tree from lawnmower and weedeater damage.

Fertilize the tree with an all-purpose fertilizer once a month during the growing season.

Persimmons can also be started from seed. This begins by gathering ones fruit. This can be ripe fruit that has been picked off the tree or you now can purchase it through the local grocery store.

After the fruit has been gathered, simply run it through a food mill and separate the pulp from the seeds and skin. Once this is done, remove the seeds, wash them and place them out to dry for one to two days.

After they have dried, it is time to stratify them. This only requires the seeds to be placed in damp peat moss and then placed in an environment that is kept at 33 to 40 degrees F for two to three months.

In the spring, plant the seeds in a shallow hole and cover with ½ inch of hummus. Once the seeds have germinated and produced at least three leaves, it is time to transplant, if desired. Do not wait until the seedlings are several feet in height. Persimmons do not transplant well due to their taproot.

Persimmons will begin to produce fruit when they are around 25 to 50 years old but some 10-year-old trees have been known to produce.

A cautionary hint when it comes to planting a persimmon tree. Keep in mind that the tree does fruit and this fruit makes a mess on sidewalks, roofs, and cars. Plan your placement for when the tree is mature and fruiting not while it is small. This prevents problems from occurring and keeps peace with your family, friends and neighbors

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What are Heirloom Plants?

Written by Stephanie on January 5th, 2012

Heirloom plants are in the news. What, exactly, are heirloom plants and how are they different from non-heirloom plants? There are many definitions of heirloom plants. Most agree that they are plants that were developed before World War II, are open pollinated, and are not genetically modified (GMO).

Some individuals would say that a plant is only an heirloom if it was in use before World War I. The distinction is not critical, however, because the true boundary being expressed is that the plant was developed before the widespread use of chemical fertilizers and pesticides. These plants should not depend on huge amounts of chemicals being used to kill anything else in the field, as some modern seed does.

Open pollinated means that the plant will breed true. If you save the seeds from one year and plant them the next, you will get plants just like the parent. Many modern seeds are hybrids. If you save the seeds and sow them the next year, you will get a plant that is unpredictable. It will not look like its’ parents, but will favor one or the other in ways that are impossible to tell. Farmers that plant hybrid plants must buy new seed every year to get the expected crop.

Genetically modified crops are variously viewed as the salvation of man or the instrument of its’ destruction. GMO crops have genetic material from unrelated species inserted into their genetic material to add desirable characteristics and mitigate undesirable ones. Corn is the classic GMO crop right now. Genes have been added to make it more tolerant to pesticides and to kill caterpillars that eat it. Because corn is pollinated by the wind, one field can contaminate thousands
of acres with GMO pollen. Lawsuits are still being used to sort that one out.

Some groups growing heirloom plants add a requirement that the plants came passed down in families, not maintained by seed companies. This is not necessary, but it makes it more interesting to grow a given crop if you know the plant was smuggled out of Hungary by fleeing Germans, or brought to the United States by Irish immigrants.

The biggest advantage of heirloom plants is their genetic diversity. You can find plants that will survive in almost any climate in the heirloom part of the seed catalog. However, you should know that many heirloom plants do not have resistance to common problems such as fusarium wilt in tomatoes, so you have to pick your plants wisely. Not everything grows every place, and sometimes it is tough to find out exactly what climate the plants will do best in.

Heirloom plants are typically more expensive than hybrid plants. However, they taste good, come in strange and wonderful colors and shapes, and work to keep plants alive that would otherwise die out. Try out a row of heirloom plants this growing season.

You can find more information on heirloom plants at the Seed Saver’s Exchange. They are a seed bank that also grows out and sells many heirloom plants and seeds.

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